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GI connectors often burn up in their old age. One of these actually disintigrated when I tried to remove it--no great loss since it had stopped passing current anyway. To repair these charcoal briquettes, cut off the burned parts and replace them with new connectors. Use Molex "Trifurcon" pins and choose the correct size connector housing. (TZ uses two 11-pin connectors for GI output--see p3-33, J120 & J121. The GI input is 12-pin J115, which should be replaced as well.)
Molex part numbers (these are all .156" parts!):
11-pin connector plug C5156-11-LR
Keying plug 15-04-0219
Trifurcon pins for inside the connector 08-52-0113 (these are loose, more convenient than the spool)
Ideally you will want to remove the power driver board and replace the header pins as well so both parts of the junction are matching modern materials. If you don't, you could have browning again in a few years. (11-pin .156" header CH156-11A-SFL-T)
(What about gold? You can use gold-plated parts, but make sure you replace the connectors and the header pins at the same time. Don't use mismatched metals.)
Note that the header and connector parts listed here are made to snap together. The connector will work with the original header on the board but it won't "click" into place as nicely.
The parts are cheap; you can get everything you need for just a few bucks (not including shipping). What will cost you more is the crimping tool. A budget crimper like the Waldom 1919 will cost about $20 but it should let you do everything but the CPU board in a pinball machine.
Be sure to order some extra pins so you can practice crimping. Read the directions on your crimping tool, and study these materials from Molex too. (Don't worry, everything will make more sense when you get your hands on the tool and the parts.)
Happy customer plug: I ordered my parts from Great Plains Electronics and got great service.
Also, thanks to rec.games.pinball and those who wrote me with suggestions! |
